Where We Eat: Breadstall in Soho

Obviously, after complaining about the proliferation of pizza in a previous blog, we now need to talk about a pizza restaurant we've eaten in. Ideally a good one!

Fortunately, when I scrolled back through my photo feed to decide where to write about, I was reminded of a quick pit stop in Soho on the way to a meeting. We were in a hurry and needed a swift bite, so Breadstall on Berwick Street was just the ticket.

It's a relatively recent addition to the London pizza scene, opening in 2025, but the back story stretches all the way to the 90s and a bread stall on exactly this street.

The pizzas are somehow fluffy and crispy at the same time. It's apparently all down to the biga pre-ferment in the dough, but whatever the secret, the texture is really something.

Toppings are pretty much what you'd expect. We had a Chicken Parm and one of the weekly specials, a collab with Chase & Status if I remember rightly. The vibe and the service were absolutely spot on.

Jay Rayner has declared it his new favourite pizza in London, and I'd struggle to disagree!

Which is the point, really. Nothing in this week's editorial was a complaint about pizza as such. It was a complaint about pizza as the safe, defensive default. Breadstall is the opposite, a place that has clearly thought about the dough, the history and the detail, and it shows!

If you find yourself in or around Soho, it's worth a detour.