Where We Eat — The Victory, East Dulwich

An old school friend of Henry's is involved in one of the newest openings in SE London, and after a visit for lunch last week we can confirm that it's a cracker!

When Franklin's closed earlier this year after 26 years in East Dulwich, it felt like the end of something.  The good news is that the people taking it on understand exactly what they're inheriting.

The Victory has opened in its place, the name a nod to the pub that originally occupied the site, brought to life by Jamie Younger of The Begging Bowl and his wife Rema, with Sean Breen in the kitchen.  Sean is an old school friend of Henry's, most recently at Noble Rot, which tells you something about the level of the food!

Henry went for lunch last week and came back with strong opinions, which is always a good sign.

The standouts were a rabbit cacciatore with parmesan polenta…deeply savoury and thoroughly satisfying.  And a Cornish crab with peach and datterini tomato that was pitch perfect for the warmer weather.

Henry drank a Chablis. This is not a surprise…Henry always drinks classic French wines. Some things are non-negotiable.

What struck him most though was how considered the whole thing felt. This wasn't a restaurant trying to reinvent the wheel. 

It was a team of experienced operators who understood exactly what they wanted the restaurant to be, executing it with confidence and consistency.

There's a lesson in that. In hospitality we're often encouraged to chase the next new idea, but more often than not the places that endure are the ones that quietly do simple things exceptionally well.

Franklin's knew that. The Victory already seems to as well.