Sweet Memories

I once read somewhere that the two most important parts of a meal are the beginning and the end. The beginning matters because you don’t get a second chance to make a first impression…which is absolutely true, and also why we spend so long thinking about the subject line of these newsletters. The first paragraph is always the hardest to write… so now that’s out of the way!

As for the end… well, it’s equally important. The lasting impression can often be shaped by the final bite you eat, or indeed the final sip you drink…which brings us to a subject close to our hearts: dessert wine!

Dessert wines are often overshadowed by the back-and-forth “should I, shouldn’t I?” debate about pudding. The answer should always be yes…and a good dessert is elevated by a good dessert wine. Even if you’re too full for a final course, a glass of something sweet can be the perfect ending, just think of it as liquid dessert!

The world of sweet wine is bigger and perhaps more subtle than many people imagine. The wines can range from delicate and floral…something akin to liquid honey, all the way through to dense, sticky and rich… more like a liquid Christmas pudding. With the right pairing, the combination can lift a dish to another level. Just as importantly, good dessert wines have acidity, which freshens the palate and prevents things becoming overly sweet or cloying…not how anyone wants to be remembered!

There are quite a few different ways to make a wine sweet, but the principle is nearly always the same: reduce the water content of the grapes to concentrate the sugars. That way, after fermentation has converted much of the sugar into alcohol, some is still left behind…resulting in a naturally sweet wine!

The most famous method? Leave the grapes on the vine into autumn and wait for humidity to do its work. As humidity and dampness increases, a mould forms on the grapes that draws out the water and leaves behind concentrated sugar. This helpful fungus is known as Botrytis Cinerea…or more romantically, Noble Rot. It’s the method used for many of the world’s greatest dessert wines, including Sauternes in France and Tokaji in Hungary…both of which are worth a try if you’ve not had the pleasure!

Our current favourite tipple is one we’ve recently added to the list: Quarts de Chaume, Grand Cru, 2019. It’s from the Loire Valley, made with 100% Chenin Blanc grown on steep vineyards overlooking the river…perfect conditions for those misty, noble-rot-filled autumn mornings. It’s not quite as punchy (in price) as Sauternes, but we absolutely love it!

So next time you’re dining out…whether it’s with us or somewhere else, consider lingering a little longer over the dessert wine list and let your last sip be one to remember!